Inspiration // March

In 2008, the New York times published an article titled "The Vanishing Point" which explained how the size and shape of male models was shrinking rapidly despite the fact that the size and shape of the average American man has risen. The article credits designer/photographer Hedi Slimane as the man responsible for imposing this image of a  youthful, fragile and thin male during his tenure at Yves Saint Laurent Homme which he then carried on with him when he was appointed creative director at Dior Homme in 2000.

Mr. Slimane however is the not the only designer who seems to be infatuated with this continually trending skinny male aesthetic. Other, designers such as Raf Simons, and more recently, J.W. Anderson are not only embracing the thin male figure but also the feminine attributes attached to it that go against traditionally sought out notions of menswear such as those reflected at the bespoke tailoring boutiques on London's Savile Row.

In my response, I think that this change in menswear is conspicuous not just physically in regards to seasonal collections, but also mentally in regards to the social response. It's often said that men (and guys alike) today are becoming much more keen to keep up with current trends and are aware of the way they look as well as their personal grooming habits. I reiterate this statement because it holds truth; in recent years I've noticed guys pick up and dispose of trends season after season just as women have done so in the past. While trend watch within the menswear field has been around for nearly a century, never has it been so rapidly paced and changing as it is today. It's not something that was completely imposed by the designer's themselves; it's the market that responded positively when skinny male models were pushed onto the runway by the designers and thus revolutionized the ideal contemporary male figure. It's a cause and effect cycle.

Men have began to break away from the structural elements imposed by masculinity and are embracing the more feminine side of fashion structurally as well as trend-wise. Narrow-cut trousers, darted jackets, and pastel palettes.

Pastel Palette seen in Burburry Prorsum's Spring/Summer 2014 Campaign Ad

With this in mind, I've been concerned with where the future of menswear will lead to or where it is already leading towards. I've never been more enthusiastic about menswear as I am today. With Hedi Slimane having returned to YSL in 2011 to design both mens' & women's collections and completely reinventing the brand (restoring the brand to it's original name, Saint Laurent Paris), I can only imagine what the future holds. I find it gifting to be able to experience and take notice of this change considering it is a major turning point in fashion in general.

David.

Hedi Slimane's debut womenswear collection for Saint Laurent Paris Spring 2013