Post Spring Update

I know my posting has been on hiatus for a while, but I have a lengthy post coming up shortly (and a variety of others to follow) on summer, ankle boots, palm trees and "To Kill a Mockingbird". For now, Sonic Youth and Raf Simons:

Sonic Youth Performing "Superstar" via VEVO 

Photo-nostalgia and subtle spontaneity at Raf Simons' s/s 2015 presentation 

-David

20

   

         
      http://www.laurenleporephotography.tumblr.com


                                       Today I turn twenty, I will be spending the day at the beach.

                                         Michelle.

Inspiration // March

In 2008, the New York times published an article titled "The Vanishing Point" which explained how the size and shape of male models was shrinking rapidly despite the fact that the size and shape of the average American man has risen. The article credits designer/photographer Hedi Slimane as the man responsible for imposing this image of a  youthful, fragile and thin male during his tenure at Yves Saint Laurent Homme which he then carried on with him when he was appointed creative director at Dior Homme in 2000.

Mr. Slimane however is the not the only designer who seems to be infatuated with this continually trending skinny male aesthetic. Other, designers such as Raf Simons, and more recently, J.W. Anderson are not only embracing the thin male figure but also the feminine attributes attached to it that go against traditionally sought out notions of menswear such as those reflected at the bespoke tailoring boutiques on London's Savile Row.

In my response, I think that this change in menswear is conspicuous not just physically in regards to seasonal collections, but also mentally in regards to the social response. It's often said that men (and guys alike) today are becoming much more keen to keep up with current trends and are aware of the way they look as well as their personal grooming habits. I reiterate this statement because it holds truth; in recent years I've noticed guys pick up and dispose of trends season after season just as women have done so in the past. While trend watch within the menswear field has been around for nearly a century, never has it been so rapidly paced and changing as it is today. It's not something that was completely imposed by the designer's themselves; it's the market that responded positively when skinny male models were pushed onto the runway by the designers and thus revolutionized the ideal contemporary male figure. It's a cause and effect cycle.

Men have began to break away from the structural elements imposed by masculinity and are embracing the more feminine side of fashion structurally as well as trend-wise. Narrow-cut trousers, darted jackets, and pastel palettes.

Pastel Palette seen in Burburry Prorsum's Spring/Summer 2014 Campaign Ad

With this in mind, I've been concerned with where the future of menswear will lead to or where it is already leading towards. I've never been more enthusiastic about menswear as I am today. With Hedi Slimane having returned to YSL in 2011 to design both mens' & women's collections and completely reinventing the brand (restoring the brand to it's original name, Saint Laurent Paris), I can only imagine what the future holds. I find it gifting to be able to experience and take notice of this change considering it is a major turning point in fashion in general.

David.

Hedi Slimane's debut womenswear collection for Saint Laurent Paris Spring 2013

Thoughts III: On The Cusp of Spring

Theoretically we’re supposed to be on the cusp of spring by this time of year, but in actuality, New York seems to remain a frigid tundra of ice complete with the taste of bitter expectations of what awaits us this summer. It really seems as though its been the longest winter I’ve experienced in my 18 (almost 19!) years of living here. Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been trying to find ways to kill time while I wait for the brutal winter to drigress and allow for even a little bit of sunshine. For some odd reason, this weather has led me to avert from my almost over analytical tendency to look at things in an over contemplative manner (the way I normally tend to do so) and instead shift my focus on the whole picture of things and the way they situate themselves amongst their habitat. This new way of looking at things has become so vital to me because at the moment, I’m having an identity crisis. My tendency to overanalyze things has led me to question myself, ask myself who I am, what I am doing and why I do it. At first, it was slightly disappointing to not know who I am or how I situate myself in the world, but I soon came to realize that I’m not alone.

Self awareness and insecurity is much more conspicuous even to the casual onlooker within the fashion industry primarily because of its aesthetic factor and its not just affecting the individuals themselves. In 2010, editor in chief and founder of StyleRookie.com/Rookiemag, Tavi Gevinson, gave a presentaion in which she mentioned brand identity becoming more much important to the fashion houses of today as opposed to the trends of the season. The reason for this being is because designers themselves have been unable to dictate the trends of the present day as it has been in the past. This is the result of widespread embracement of individuality in society as a whole, specifically within this upcoming generation of adolecents.

There's this lyric in Fleet Foxes’ song “Helplessness Blues” that reads

“I was raised up believing I was somehow unique, like a snowflake distinct among snowflakes; unique in each way you can see.”

This lyric pretty much summarizes how the vast majority of modern day youth was raised and is continually being brought up. We embrace individuality because we grew up being told that we were all special which is not necessarily a bad thing. However, I think we all embrace so much of ourselves and so many qualities that we like, to the point where we cannot really surmise one personality because we’ve been exploring so many things. Take college for instance; since I've started school I've heard the same things over and over again about people wanting to do so many things, but not knowing whats meant for them. It’s the same process most fashion houses go through today; one season they’re rolling out fur jackets and the next season they’ve moved on to camo prints. Its this never ending cycle of trendwatch in search of the next best thing, but this could lead to positive outcomes.

In the video, Tavi posits something very important and that is the vitality of brand individuality in regards to how they branch out to their customer and how they define themselves in the market. Chanel’s iconic tweed jacket is considered a timeless piece that can be worn with almost any given outfit. That itself is brand individuality. That is what defines Chanel; the tweed Jacket is the essence of the brand. Similarly, Burberry’s trench coat is considered to be the epitome of the brand itself. Everything has become about the individual brand and it's relationship to a specific client

In a way, I do agree and I do think that individuality is something that's extremely vital, especially in a society where things are rapidly changing every waking second, however I'm still not exactly sure how I fit into society and whether or I'm part of some major prophecy that will somehow change the world's perspective on this topic. I will say that as confusing as it many or may not sound (or possibly cliche), insecurity and self-awareness eventually leads us somewhere in life; Who know's maybe today I'm interested in menswear but tomorrow I decide that I want to be a stripper (because lets be honest, its crossed our minds at least once). It's really about exploration and that I'm not opposed to at all.

-David

Fleet Foxes - "Helplessness Blues"

L2 Generation Next Forum: Tavi Gevinson - May 14, 2010

Inspiration // February

Ali McGraw                                                                Anna Karina

                                                                                                         

Myself, Photographed by Lauren Lepore 

     

Take Ivy is an iconic fashion photography book from 1965 that chronicles the outfits of Ivy League students across the United States. What makes this book especially unique is that it was commissioned and ultimately materialized through the efforts of Japanese fashion enthusiasts at the time. Take Ivy was the brainchild of Kensuke Ishizu, and would serve as inspiration for his Ivy- League inspired clothing line, Van Jacket. My sudden and intense interest in this book is sparked by the fact that the specific campus style of these American college students was being noted and emulated by people half way across the world. This book was ahead of it's time tapping in on a specific aesthetic and working as a style guide for a Japanese population more keen on western styles.

Princeton 1966 yearbook photos. 

The beautiful Oroma Elewa By Jody Rogac                                                                                                                

                    

Understated and minimal outfits have been a lot more appealing to me lately. Winter in NYC can be cruel so I've been layering a lot as of late and because of this I've been craving less bulk and more simplicity. I've never been more anxious for spring before. 

- Michelle.

Thoughts II

Film’s are an invaluable means for me to draw inspiration from, especially in a sartorial sense. They can leave a more lasting and stronger impression on my ideas of style. I’ve realized that this has been happening in my life for a very long time now. Perhaps in the most subtle of ways, I’ve picked up on cues and hints on colors and silhouettes that most appealed to me. I’ve always been a visual person, connecting and learning ideas through a more discernible manner and this has definitely impacted my personal sense of style. I love "Brideshead Revisited" for this reason; the story itself is wonderful and engrossing, but the 1980’s series and more recent 2008 film adaptation based on the novel by Evelyn Waugh offer a heavy dose of early 20th century fashion and more specifically, menswear. What attracted me most was it was not what automatically came to mind when I thought of 1920’s English menswear, or at least what my preconceived notions of it was. There’s nothing too stuffy aside from the occasional dinner suits, its all more relaxed and casual. A lot of tweeds, wools and neutrals that can easily be translated and incorporated into modern day outfits.

Michelle.

  

   

Grey Cape -Thrifted

Watch - Casio

Houndstooth Capri Pant - American Apparel

Trench Cape - GAP                   

Leather Satchel - Etsy                

Green Patent Leather Brouges - Asos

                                       

Thoughts

I seem to be more concerned with the detailing of objects, be it clothing, furniture and even natural resources. I recently bought a pair of boots not because I thought they looked nice although that was a contributing factor, but mainly because I was completely infatuated with the hemline of the top stitching of the boot. I'm honestly not sure why I'm so enamored with detailing, but I think it's a good quality to posses; the ability to appreciate things  so small and meticulous that they are usually overlooked. As far as I'm concerned, not many people take the time to appreciate the stitches in the lining of a jacket or the width of the collar on a classic white shirt, especially in this city (New York). Maybe it's just my anal tendencies kicking in. Maybe it's not. Maybe my habit of over-contemplating things is actually some sort of God-given gift that is supposed to aid me when I'm making tough decisions, such as choosing between two different shades of burgundy or a plan for a school project. Whatever the cause may be, it's the reason why I enjoy the sartorial aspect of fashion, menswear and design in general.

Point, line and plane are the building blocks of design, or so that's what I was taught at school this semester. I can't look at objects now without over-analyzing them for structure and balance or point, line and plane. Even just walking down the street, I tend to unconsciously measure the perimeter of one concrete block and compare it to the perimeter of the preceding one. Design has completely begun to invade my mind, but I'm okay with that.

Just as long as it doesn't interfere with my routinely morning bagel, I think I should be okay.

David.